This past week celebs, journalists and socialites flocked to the City of Lights for Paris Couture Fashion Week to catch designers collections for the upcoming Spring/Summer season. In case you have not gotten around to viewing any of the fashion webcast shows, I have taken the liberty at giving a quick run-down of what I thought were the best shows and a few pieces from each collection.
The week began with Atelier Versace last Sunday and let’s just say the collection was heavy on the “disco” side – which by no means am I mad about and the silhouette’s were strong but still exuded femininity. The show opened with day-wear, which contained a plethora of bold, cropped, colourful numbers and tons and tons of shimmer – think sleeveless lemon perfecto jacket paired with a pleated chiffon skirt…which was just perfection! In another vignette, models traipsed down the runway in masculine black suits with 24 carat gold seams or in head-to-toe lamé. Always a lover of jackets with structure, I was pleased to see the triangular shoulders which gave just a glint of retro-futurism. Tinted fox fur also made quite an appearance throughout the collection in various capacities; a shawl, a detachable collar, and on a cropped, belted dress. In the evening night wear vignette, usually contain my fav pieces amongst Versace collections, came evening and cocktail dresses with the house’s signature “up-to-there” slits, some full frontal sheerness or curved mesh insets. I would have been down to go to Studio 54 in any of these ensembles.
If you are fashion obsessed, then Alexandre Vauthier must be on your radar as of late. The collection he showed during the week was slightly androgynous but ultra sexy (suits and trouser/shirt separates) and the evening dresses were glam to the max, with two of them closely resembling some vintage Bob Mackie designs that Cher used to wear back in the day. This collection has now solidified in my mind why the designer’s clothes has quickly gained a celebrity cult following with the likes of Heidi Klum, Rita Ora and Kylie Minogue religiously wearing Vauthier’s designs on one red carpet after another. The French designer, who started his career at Thierry Mugler before launching his own fashion house in 2009, showcased a collection of basically all black suits, backless dresses with sexy slits up to the hip and some dresses with sheer fabric covering the chest – I swear, leaving literally nothing to the imagination. I DIED over the tuxedo style jackets and liquid-like pants with gold zippers in the in-seem.
I am never surprised when I see or hear of elaborate sets created for Chanel shows…it’s just “The Kaiser’s” (aka Karl Lagerfeld) nature to be dramatic and over-the-top when creating a backdrop to his collections. This time around, the genius designer came up with an enchanted forest inhabited by melancholic and ethereal creatures. Lagerfeld’s fantasy commences in the forest in the outskirts of Germany and he re-interpreted the style of German authors Goethe e Schiller. There was certainly a distinct Gothic reference throughout the collection, even amongst the house’s most well known look (tweet suits) and the dresses which had low necklines in both the front and back. Within the evening vignette , precious fabrics appeared on the catwalk in the shape of long sequined gowns with 3D floral embroideries, feathered column gowns and pretty chiffon skirts layered with tulle that looked très fantastique !
This was Raf Simmons second time at the rodeo at the helm of Dior and he took to the house’s archives for his inspiration – and I think everyone was glad he did…as it resulted in a heavy romantic tone throughout the collection. However, he made sure to maintain the brand’s tailoring, especially in the suits. Looking through the collection, there were heaps of dresses resembling the shape of flowers either with it’s layering of material or through the choice of colour. Models were clad in amazing robe bustiers, embroidered ball gowns and of course tailored jackets – basically pieces of architectural art. Simons has succeeded in setting a new trend in today’s couture world – “effortless luxury”!
In my next life if I’m fortunate to be a movie star, I would live and die by Elie Saab and the houses’ designs would be my preferred choice for red carpet appearances. They are always so ultra feminine, sexy, body flattering and contain the best detailing ever. Each gown in the collection was totally embroidered with jet and crystal embroidery, rhinestones or decorated with with silver tweed foliage. The Spring/Summer collection was ALL about lightness. The dresses were uber feminine in beyond gorge subdued shades – champagne, sky blue, and pink. I totally expect to see a ton of these looks gracing the red carpet during awards season.
Stayed tuned for part deux of my Paris Couture week fashion recap.